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Flavors and scents remind us of where we’ve been—and help us dream of where we want to go. Similarly, certain herbs and spices can help us adapt the most basic meals into creative dishes redolent of another place and time. Herbs de Provence, an aromatic dried herb mixture, is the perfect example of this.
Herbs de Provence, Explained
Traditionally, the herbs de Provence blend includes thyme, oregano, summer savory, and rosemary. These are plants that grow abundantly on the hillsides and in the fields of Provence, in southern France. “All of the personality of Provençal cooking comes from these hillside herbs. They are totally indispensable to it,” says Michel Biehn, author of Cooking with Herbs: The Flavor of Provence.
While Provençal cooks have been using these herbs together for centuries, the blend became known outside of Provence and France more recently. Julia Child used it in a recipe for poulet sauté aux herbes de Provence in her book Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and by the 1970s, jars of herbs de Provence were available in the United States.
Origins
Note that store-bought bottles of herbs de Provence often feature blends of the same or similar herbs—but don’t necessarily come from Provence. That is where spice company Burlap & Barrel comes in. They work with a cooperative of French herb growers to import their herbs de Provence blend. The 40 to 50 farmers in the co-op all grow herbs within the region of Provence, not far from Avignon. The variety of thyme and oregano these farmers grow is specific to that microclimate and has been given a protected Denomination of Origin (DOP).
It’s a labor-intensive production process: The herbs are all harvested by hand within weeks of each other during the summer. Each farmer has their own drying facilities, provided by the cooperative. This decentralized system makes it possible for the harvested herbs to be dried, blended, and shipped as quickly as possible after the productive summer season, so the blend is fresh and fragrant when it’s sold to market.
How to Use Herbs de Provence Traditionally
Herbs de Provence is considered an all-purpose seasoning blend. That said, it is most often used to flavor poultry or lamb—and sometimes fish—before it is baked or grilled. The blend is used in robust stews, and to marinate goat cheeses and olives. Because the herbs are dried, and therefore have a hard texture and concentrated aroma, they should be incorporated in the early stages of cooking, when they can infuse the fat on a roast or the olive oil or liquid in a pot.
In Provence, a traditional earthenware dish, called a tian, is used for baking vegetables. The resulting dish is also called a tian, and usually consists of layers of thinly sliced vegetables baked with olive oil until tender, such as this dish of tomato, eggplant and zucchini. Use herbs de Provence in place of the oregano called for in the recipe.
Other Ways to Use the Herb Blend
To imagine what other dishes you might season with your jar of herbs de Provence, keep that sense of place in mind. In other words, choose vegetables that grow in sunny Mediterranean regions, such as Provence; zucchini and other summer squash, peppers, eggplant, potatoes, beans, and alliums work well, too. Consider things that taste delicious with black olives—and don’t forget the olive oil.
Herbs de Provence stands up to the strong flavors of grilled fish—such as sardines, mackerel, and bluefish—and can be combined with a piquant ingredient—such as Dijon mustard or capers. Sprinkle the herb blend over sliced potatoes before they’re roasted, or toss with tomatoes, eggplant, or onions before grilling. Herbs de Provence are also a good match for a pot of white beans with garlic and olive oil, or the late summer classic, ratatouille.
Substituting for Herbs de Provence
Once you know the herbs that make up herbs de Provence, you can use your judgment when adapting them and using substitutions. The way the herbs balance each other is what makes a harmonious blend, so don’t swap herbs de Provence for just one of the herbs in the blend; instead, choose one or two of the herbs that go into it, and add something else, too. For example, if you have oregano or thyme, use one or both of those and consider adding bay leaf, marjoram, and even fennel seed.
How to Make Your Own Herbs de Provence Blend
It’s simple to make your own blend of herbs de Provence using herbs you have grown or gathered. Of course, you can buy jars of the individual ingredients and combine them, using approximately equal amounts, or adjusting the ratios to your liking.
If you are a Provençal purist, use only a combination of thyme, oregano, rosemary, and summer savory for your herbs de Provence. If someone asks about adding basil, fennel, or lavender, simply answer with a French shrug.
Using Fresh Herbs
If you are using fresh herbs, dry them on the branch; once they are dried, shake the herb leaves onto a kitchen towel, pick through them to discard any long stems, and store the herbs in an airtight container away from direct sunlight or heat. Grind them up in equal amounts when you are ready to cook with them.
Variations
Many cooks take license with their blend of herbs. Chef and author Jody Williams includes a recipe for herbs de Provence in her book Buvette, The Pleasure of Good Food. She uses a looser hand than some traditionalists do, and includes dried basil, sage, lavender, and fennel seeds. She sprinkles this aromatic mixture into many dishes, like her rich, melted cheese sandwich, the Croque Monsieur, coq au vin, and her roast chicken.
Storing Herbs
The key to long-lasting flavorful spices and herbs is proper storage. Keep your blend in a small, dark jar with little space to ensure air doesn’t make the herbs stale. Then, keep the jar in a cool, dry space, preferably away from the heat of your oven. Done properly, your herbs de Provence will keep for six months to a year.